Monday, July 14, 2008

Approaching the D-day: Pelebon Minus 1

With all the mayhem around the world, Bali's cultural center, Ubud, is facing its own mayhem, with the massive royal cremations here tomorrow. But unlike most other places around the world, this Bali mayhem is calm, beautiful and festive. The narrow streets of Ubud are almost at a stand still. Cars, motorbikes, trucks... with spaces between filled with bodies and sarong covered legs... and yet seldom a tooting car horn for the long waits everyone is enduring.

Adjacent to the Royal Palace are the two massive 29 meters high shrines (Bade) which will carry the deceased royals. They have been lovingly built by the local community and taken months, but will be destroyed in minutes tomorrow, when they are set alight so send their Royals to their new world.

What's amazing is the calmness of the Balinese trying to prepare for tomorrow, building these immensely elaborate structures amongst thronging international tourists and local Indonesian sightseers. I have not witnessed anyone raising their voice or asking people to move. The work just carries on around the tourists.

There is music everywhere and I am told its a time of happiness and celebration... this is a trait the Balinese just slip into so easily at anytime.

The streets are so narrow its going to be a master feat to maneuver these huge structures with their golden wings up the street. All the power lines are to be removed tomorrow just for this event, another amazing feat which is taken in typical Balinese stride.

This is an amazing spectacle. And although its not put on as a tourist event, but a traditional local ceremony, one just cannot miss this. It's going to be a long day tomorrow.

*from the point-of-view of CML

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