Lesson from the Balinese

Never in my life I'd seen such beautiful collaboration, brute strength and communal effort that blended together in a peaceful, soothing [and sometimes upbeat] rhytm of gamelan. All 2 kms of walk [back and forth] had paid off and I never regret my decision on insisting to walk with kebaya [bought at pasar ubud with resilient effort of haggling], sarong and belt with an angry sun above my head, stampeded amidst tourists from various nationalities, locals and journalists that were flocked to the narrow streets of Ubud. Even after I finally set foot at Puri Dalam Setra - the cremation location - me and the rest of people who were all colorfully dressed in traditional costume still had to endure the long wait until evening [which actually allowed me to steal 10 - 15 minutes nap in between] before finally able to witness the greatest cremation since 1979. The minute I saw the soaring fire's burning the cute bull effigies and mythical-dragon like Naga Banda , shoot off the ceiling ofthe platform - where those were placed - up to the dark Bali sky and turned them all into ashes, I immediately felt the temperature was rising and my face felt literally hot. Oblivious to the fact that it took firefigthers to calm the fire down, I [and the rest of other people] refused to leave the scene and decided to just step back few steps. I said to myself, oh this is so worth it. I don't mind the long wait.Patience is a virtue!.

Shivering with amazement and touched by the humbleness of Balinese people - even the royal families themselves [based from experience which I will further elaborate on my next postings], I'm glad that I'm part of this unforgettable event, and feel honored to be able to raise awareness of this event as well as the philosophy behind it.

And now, after it's all passed and I'm stuck here in the media center with other tasks before flying back to Jakarta tomorrow, I still feel astonished and kept saying to myself that all of this just feel surreal. Not only that, it's also a bit ironic, knowing that Indonesians are notoriously known of being weak in "discipline department", but today the Balinese just proved otherwise.

It's a great strenght of control and definitely discipline from thousands of people to hold such massive parade without turning it into a mayhem. It's a total tolerance, understanding and patience that drives those people to work together to finally reach their destination.
I think Indonesians should learn from the Balinese who actually have been teaching us moral values through its rich, serene culture and composed gestures, that living in harmony is possible if only we're willing to work things out together.

*from the point-of-view of DS

The Big Day: July 15th Pelebon

Where in the world on one day would you experience laughter, energy, brute strength, ingenuity, creativity, respect, dignity…only in Bali and only once every five years, with their cremation cycle.

Today, Tuesday July 15 was something special. Today thousands witnessed the Royal Cremations, nothing which has been seen here in Bali for the past 20 years.

Creativity overwhelmed the day, with Balinese creativity outshining all in the design of the 70 odd floats
Dignity for the manner in which the bodies and ashes of the deceased were handled
Respect by the thousands of on-lookers, foreigners and locals alike, who dressed appropriately in sarongs, kebaya and head gear
Brute strengths from the 250 000 local men who carried the two 11 ton, 7 meter tall Bades with the coffins atop; and the others who carried equally heavy sarcophagus bulls, dragons and around 70 other floats
Ingenuity by the way the human bodies twisted and manipulated their giant responsibilities around trees, power lines and the many other obstacles along the narrow Ubud streets
Energy was everywhere, not only from within the human wheels, but also from the crowds willing them on
Laughter….masses of laughter from all, when floats took the wrong turn, or hit the pole or obstacle. Cheers and clapping when they solved the problem and moved forward

A day to remember…. And as I write this, we have only just begun our journey….

*from the point-of-view of CML

Approaching the D-day: Pelebon Minus 1

With all the mayhem around the world, Bali's cultural center, Ubud, is facing its own mayhem, with the massive royal cremations here tomorrow. But unlike most other places around the world, this Bali mayhem is calm, beautiful and festive. The narrow streets of Ubud are almost at a stand still. Cars, motorbikes, trucks... with spaces between filled with bodies and sarong covered legs... and yet seldom a tooting car horn for the long waits everyone is enduring.

Adjacent to the Royal Palace are the two massive 29 meters high shrines (Bade) which will carry the deceased royals. They have been lovingly built by the local community and taken months, but will be destroyed in minutes tomorrow, when they are set alight so send their Royals to their new world.

What's amazing is the calmness of the Balinese trying to prepare for tomorrow, building these immensely elaborate structures amongst thronging international tourists and local Indonesian sightseers. I have not witnessed anyone raising their voice or asking people to move. The work just carries on around the tourists.

There is music everywhere and I am told its a time of happiness and celebration... this is a trait the Balinese just slip into so easily at anytime.

The streets are so narrow its going to be a master feat to maneuver these huge structures with their golden wings up the street. All the power lines are to be removed tomorrow just for this event, another amazing feat which is taken in typical Balinese stride.

This is an amazing spectacle. And although its not put on as a tourist event, but a traditional local ceremony, one just cannot miss this. It's going to be a long day tomorrow.

*from the point-of-view of CML

Media Update (July 14, 2008)

The Latest

On July 13, 2008, Puri Agung Ubud family members and relatives held special processions in conjunction with the upcoming Pelebon ceremony on July 15, 2008.

Ngening Ceremony
Another procession was conducted this morning to the deep spring in Tjampuhan to collect holy water that will be used to symbolically shower the royal deceased.

Mendak Naga Banda
Hundreds of people, including royal family members and relatives and Ubud locals, walked in a parade to bring the 7-meter long dragon-like creature Naga Banda from Merajan Agung Peliatan to the throne of the Puri Agung Ubud royal deceased. Before Naga Banda was taken from Merajan Agung Peliatan, it had to be symbolically put to death, separating its soul from the body and other earth elements.

Naga Banda Munggah to Sumanggen
As soon as it arrived in Puri Agung, Naga Banda was brought to Sumanggen – the throne of the deceased, before being taken to the cremation site.

Media events and activities
Ceremonies held today in connection with the Pelebon of Puri Agung Ubud:

Monday, July 14, 2008
• 8:00 a.m. (Bali Time) – last Ngening ceremony in Tjampuhan
• 8:00 p.m. (Bali Time) – ritual lighting of lanterns to pay tribute to Pelebon ceremonies

Note: For coverage, please contact the Media Center beforehand to obtain access to ceremonial sites. On July 14 at 2 p.m. (Bali Time), Media Center will arrange a site survey for the media to secure positions for coverage during the ceremony (meeting point at the Media Center)


Tuesday, July 15, 2008
• 6:00 a.m. (Bali Time) – placement of the roof of the 28.5-meter Bade in Puri Agung Ubud
• 1:00 p.m. (Bali Time) – early procession to the cremation site during which a ritual releasing of arrows called Manah Naga Banda will be performed by a pedanda (high priest)
• 2:00 p.m. (Bali Time) – cremation at the Setra Dalem
• 7:00 p.m. (Bali Time) – procession to Sunrise beach in Sanur (Pantai Matahari Terbit) to release the remains of the deceased on the beach


Other Information

Access to Ubud

• Until July 14, 2008, access to Ubud will be closed except from the Kadewatan area
Shuttle buses to Ubud will be provided at 10:00 a.m. (Bali Time) from the Bali Tourism Board Office, Jl. Raya Puputan 41, Renon, Denpasar

• On July 15, 2008, all access to Ubud will be completely closed for the whole day.
Media will be provided transportation, departing from Bali Tourism Board office at 7:30 a.m. (Bali Time)

Media Update (July 13, 2008)

The latest

Today several ceremonies were held in conjunction with the Puri Agung Ubud Royal Cremation Ceremonies.

Nuntun Ceremony - photos here
Nuntun ceremony started from Puri Sentra where the family members prayed for the souls of the deceased. Then people walked to Jl. Suwetu and prayed and put offerings for the souls of the deceased.

Ngareka Kajang Ceremony - photos here
Ngareka Kajang ceremony makes several layers of blankets which has symbols on it. Every symbol has a meaning and is decorated with flowers and offerings. Next to the ceremony are the coffins that will be used for Royal Family at the Pelebon.

Ngening Ceremony - photos here
This ceremony is conducted where people extract holy water at Tjampuhan, an area located deep near the river. This holy water will be used to shower the royal family deceased symbolically.

Ngangkit Ceremony - photos here
Ngangkit ceremony is where the bodies of the deceased are taken out from the graves and cremated. This took place at Puri Sentra. After the cremation, family members gather to collect the dust and crush the remaining bones.


Media events and activities

Series of Ceremonies prior to the Royal Cremation Ceremony (Pelebon)
• Ngening ceremony at Tjampuhan area where holy extraction is taken from a spring. The holy water will be used to shower 68 remains of the deceased.
Sunday, July 13, 2008, 8:00 a.m. (Bali Time)
• A journey to pick up the mythical dragon-like creature Naga Banda.
Sunday, July, 13, 2008, 3:00 p.m. (Bali Time)
Commencing at Puri Merajan Agung Peliatan
• Arrival of the Naga Banda at the home of the deceased who will be lifted to Sumanggen (the throne of the deceased before being taken to the cremation location)
Sunday, July 13, 2008, 5:00 p.m. (Bali Time)
Ending at Puri Agung, Ubud

Note: For the coverage of any events, please confirm to the Media Center beforehand to obtain access to ceremonial sites.

Other Information

Transportation
Shuttle buses to Ubud will be provided on a daily basis:
• July 12 – 14, 2008, 10.00 a.m. (Bali Time) from the Bali Tourism Board Office, Jln. Raya Puputan 41, Renon, Denpasar

Access to Ubud
• From July 12 to July 14, 2008, access to Ubud will be closed gradually except from the Kadewatan area
• On July 15, 2008, all access to Ubud will be completely closed for the whole day.
Media will be provided transportation, departing from Bali Tourism Board office at 7:30 a.m. (Bali Time)

A Royal Cremation

By Mark Ulyseas
For The Bali Times

In conversation with Prince Tjokorda Raka Kerthyasa of the Ubud Royal Family and brother of the late head of the Ubud royal family, Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, whose cremation will take place along with others on July 15 in Ubud.

In the first half of the last century when an Indian dignitary visiting Bali uttered the words, “I see India all around me but I don’t recognize it,” he couldn’t have been closer to the truth. For instance, when marriages are celebrated in India, families pull out all the stops and go for broke. In Bali it’s the other way round: cremations are like Indian marriages but without the ostentatiousness. However, the common thread between the two cultures is the reverence with which the last rites are performed - the cremation and the subsequent rituals that make up the intricate weave of the religious fabric of a pulsating living culture.
On March 28, 2008, the head of the Ubud royal family, Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, passed away. As it was not an auspicious time to cremate him, the padanda (high priest) of the Klungkung Palace fixed July 15, for the cremation. Since the death of Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa his mortal remains has been embalmed and kept in the Puri Saren Kauh – central/west area of the Puri Agung Ubud (palace). It is appropriately placed on a decorated structure surrounded by offerings with the fragrance of incense permeating the air.
Since March, the community has rallied around the royal family every evening at the puri to reminisce, eat food, play cards etc. It is the public sharing of grief by the community for the late Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, who was affectionately called Panglingsir Puri Ubud (the wise one), by the people of Ubud and the surrounding areas. In the words of Prince Tjkorda Raka Kerthyasa, “He believed in the policy of working closely with the community with Bakti Asih (faith and compassion). He always emphasized that the palace could not be a palace without the community.”
On July 15, the cremations of Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, his nephew Tjokorda Raka, aunt Desak Raka and 68 members of the community will take place in Ubud. This is symbolic of the Gotong Royong system (mutual assistance) between the members of the royal family and the community. It is evident to all when cremations are held side by side on the same day.
To enlighten the readers of The Bali Times about the approaching day when people from over 70 villages are expected to descend on Ubud, I met Tjokorda Raka Kerthyasa to discuss the upcoming event the likes of which Bali has not seen for a number of years. Over a glass of banana lassi he told me about the preparations that have gone into the mammoth ceremony and the rituals that will be witnessed by one and all.
He said that the four banjars of Ubud have galvanized 60 to 70 villages for making the decorations, preparing the offerings, producing the two giant effigies of bulls and the three bamboo towers that would be the vehicles for the three deceased royals to the cremation ground. The main tower on which Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa’s body will be placed is 27 meters high and weighs over 11 tons. A total of six thousand people in rotation will help carry the tower.
To date, over 125 tons of rice has been used for offerings and to feed people, and an unfathomable amount of steaming cups of Bali coffee, colorful seaweed jelly and other food offered to all visitors to the palace and those helping in the preparations.
On July 13, the gigantic effigy of the bull of Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa and the Naga Banda (dragon) will be carried in procession from Peliatan Palace to Ubud Palace after the priests have purified and blessed them prior to placing them next to his body that is in the special bale at the palace.
At 6am on the cremation day, all structures, effigies and decorations, even those of the community, will be cleansed with a ritual blessing conducted by the padanda. About two hours later, the main roof of each tower will be mounted.
The funeral ceremony will commence at noon, when the sun begins its westward journey. At the crossroads in front of the palace the padanda will “shoot” the effigy of the Naga Banda with an arrow to symbolize the killing of the dragon that binds the soul to earthly attachments, including acts committed by the deceased in his or her lifetime. After this the first procession will begin in an easterly direction to Dalampuri, about 1 kilometer from the palace, where the cremation of Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa and his nephew will occur.
Over 300 women and children carrying offerings will lead the procession; the bull of Tjokorda Raka and the gigantic bull of Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa will follow it. After this will come the tower of Tjokorda Raka, holding his body, and then the Naga Banda, whose tail will be entwined at the base of the main mammoth tower holding the remains of the late head of the Ubud royal family. In the vanguard will be the Bale Ganjur, the musical instruments and their versatile players. At regular intervals in the procession there will be musicians playing various instruments.
When the first procession has left, the second will begin, westwards to the Ubud Village Cremation Ground, about 700 meters from the palace. It will consist of the tower carrying the remains of Desak Raka followed by those of the 68 members of the community.
Often there are Balinese who cannot afford a cremation, so the deceased is usually buried and then exhumed when sufficient money is available and cremated on an auspicious day. It goes without saying that members of each banjar pitches in with money and materials for the cremation of its members.
At the cremation ground, the body of Tjokorda Gde Agung Suyasa, like his nephew’s, will be removed from the tower and placed inside the respective bull that is a representation of mother earth. Each clan has its own animal symbol, like a lion, tiger, elephant, fish etc. Only the holy priests use a white bull. After the bull has been burned, the family along with the padanda will remove his remains from the ashes and rearrange it in the form of a human figure on a white cloth. The padanda will then take those parts that represent the vital organs, grind them and place the ground pieces in a young coconut that has been decorated with great care. The family will carry the coconut and the other remains on the white cloth to Matahari Terbit Beach in Sanur. There they will board a boat to throw the ashes into the sea.
This is the procedure that will be followed by the relatives of all those that have been cremated. So after the cremations, a cavalcade of hundreds of vehicles is expected to depart Ubud for Sanur.
On return to Ubud from Sanur, every family will perform a ceremony called Mepegat: the final severing of the physical/emotional attachment to the pitara (soul) of the deceased. It is the freeing of the pitara from its worldly bondage and also a final goodbye to the loved one.
For three days from July 27 to the 30, the members of the royal family will conduct a ceremony (like all other Balinese), which is the purification of the pitara to enable it to become Dewa Pitara, or one with god. After this the pitara is kept in the house temple - in the form of water, for example. During these three days, the palace will be decorated in the colors of white and yellow that represents purification of the pitara.
Don’t let the crowds or traffic dissuade you. Come to Ubud and be part of a moving spiritual experience that is intrinsic to the living culture of Bali.

And maybe when you return to your country, a part of paradise will remain in your heart, mind and soul.

Om shanti shanti shanti om

Media Update (July 12, 2008)

The latest

Media Conference
The Royal Cremation Ceremony Media Center conducted a media conference on July 11, 2008 in Ubud, Bali, with the following spokespersons Ministry of Tourism Director General for Marketing Dr. Sapta Nirwandar and Puri Agung Ubud spokespersons Tjokorda Raka Kerthyasa and Tjokorda Krishna Sudharsana.


The quotes

“The Government of Indonesia highly values the diversity, traditional heritage, and cultural richness of Indonesia. We are consistently supporting significant events, including the Royal Cremation ceremony in Ubud on July 15, 2008,” stated Ministry of Tourism Director General for Marketing Dr. Sapta Nirwandar.

“The family members are highly appreciative of the commitment shown by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism through its support in ensuring our ceremony and its cultural significance is sensitively shared with others well beyond our community” said Puri Agung Ubud spokesperson Tjokorda Krishna Sudharsana.

“We are very happy that the media and public have been enthusiastic about the ceremony. This is such huge event, attracting people from across Indonesia and around the world. Approximately 500 police officers will be deployed to ensure the ceremony runs smoothly and peacefully,” said Head of Ubud Patrol Police offices Tjokorda Gde Raka.

Media events and activities

Series of Ceremonies prior to the Royal Cremation Ceremony (Pelebon)

• A journey to pick up the mythical dragon-like creature Naga Banda
  Sunday, 13 July 2008, 3:00 p.m. (Bali Time)
  Commencing at Puri Merajan Agung Peliatan
• Arrival of the Naga Banda at the home of the deceased who will be lifted to Sumanggen (the throne of the deceased before being taken to the cremation location)
  Sunday, 13 July 2008, 5:00 p.m. (Bali Time)
  Ending at Puri Agung, Ubud
  Note: For the coverage of any events, please confirm to the Media Center beforehand to obtain access to ceremonial sites.

Other Information

Transportation
Shuttle buses to Ubud will be provided on a daily basis:

• July 12 – 14, 2008, 10.00 a.m. (Bali Time) from the Bali Tourism Board Office, Jln. Raya Puputan 41, Renon, Denpasar

Access to Ubud

• From July 12 to July14, 2008, access to Ubud will be closed gradually except from the Kadewatan area
• On July 15, 2008, all access to Ubud will be completely closed for the whole day.
  Media will be provided transportation, departing from Bali Tourism Board office at 7:30 a.m. (Bali Time)